| From the very beginning, Buenos Aires and the tango | | | | session - check with the show's organizers |
| have been inseparable. | | | | beforehand. Most of the same dance halls will also |
| It was in the brothels of this burgeoning South | | | | offer classes, normally in the early evening hours |
| American port city that, around the turn of the | | | | before the "milonga" begins. |
| century, Italian immigrant laborers first invented the | | | | Contact information for these and other "milongas" |
| dance. By the 1920s and 30s, with these brothel | | | | can be found on the official Government of Buenos |
| beginnings largely relegated to the past, tango | | | | Aires site: [ |
| reached its golden age, a time of immense popularity | | | | For those who don't yet have the skills to take on |
| for both the dance and the music alike. During those | | | | Buenos Aires' best dancers, or who are looking for a |
| years tango could be heard, in both its sung and its | | | | more relaxed or more youthful atmosphere, the |
| orchestral versions, on the radio and in dance halls | | | | "practica" or practice session has recently been |
| around the world. | | | | gaining in popularity on the traditional classic "milonga". |
| Tango, of course, remains popular to this day. And | | | | A variety of these less formal, even "underground", |
| Buenos Aires is still the best place in the world to | | | | dance halls have risen up to the task of providing |
| dance the tango or see it performed on the stage. | | | | young Argentines and foreign visitors with a place to |
| Tango dance halls are called "milongas." Even the | | | | dance where they won't be beholden to the |
| uninitiated are welcome at a "milonga" - which is to | | | | constant pressures of tango-world snobbery. Some |
| say that anyone is free to take a class or to watch | | | | of these "milongas", like the more traditional dance |
| from the tables which encircle the dance floor. But | | | | halls, also have shows. Amongst these places, you'll |
| those with little experience should be aware that in | | | | find: |
| the late evening, when the "milonga" is in session, you | | | | Tango Cool! (in Club Villa Malcolm) |
| are expected to be a highly proficient dancer before | | | | La Viruta (in The Centro Cultural Armenia) |
| you should think about selecting a partner (Ladies, | | | | Catedral |
| don't even think about it! According to the tango | | | | Finally, for tourists and for tourists only (most |
| code, only men may do the asking). Stepping on toes | | | | Argentines could scarcely afford the ticket price), a |
| is not appreciated and anyone who does so will not | | | | number of places in Buenos Aires offer dinner - show |
| be asked to dance again. "Tangueros", as tango | | | | combinations. The food is mostly forgettable, and the |
| dancers are known, are not a forgiving lot. | | | | shows are of the Andrew Lloyd Webber variety, |
| "Milongas" don't begin until 10:00 or 11:00 in the | | | | with flimsily constructed plotlines, a random selection |
| evening and normally will not end before 4:00 or 5:00 | | | | of music, unfunny jokes told by garrulous MCs, and |
| am., so make sure you have a siesta the day before. | | | | plenty of spectacle and special effects - in one of |
| A list of some of the nicest "classic" milongas in | | | | the shows, a live horse is brought onto the stage |
| Buenos Aires includes: | | | | every night! The dancers are, however, true |
| Bien Pulenta | | | | professionals and, especially when more than one |
| La Confiteria Ideal | | | | couple is dancing together on stage, the spectacle is |
| Salon Canning | | | | truly amazing. For that alone it may be worth paying |
| El Niño Bien | | | | the entry fee. The price for these shows is, |
| All of these are traditional dance halls, with marble or | | | | however, extremely steep, especially by local |
| hardwood floors, chandelier lighting, gilded ceilings and | | | | standards. Expect to pay around one hundred US |
| black jacket waiters - places that are imbued with no | | | | dollars for dinner and a show - more if inflation |
| small amount of class, and perhaps an even larger | | | | continues its current course of eroding away the |
| amount of snobbery. Many of these milongas will | | | | savings that tourists used to see from the devalued |
| offer mini-shows with famous dancers, usually at 1:00 | | | | peso. |
| or 2:00 am, as a break in the middle of the dance | | | | |